On Sunday 18th August EMUOTC departed for the Alps on Ex Alpine EMU, a demanding and challenging mountaineering expedition. Having purchased provisions for the next week in the Lidl supermarket in Visp we arrived in the early afternoon to a pleasant riverside pitch at Miscabel campsite, Saas-Grund. The remainder of the evening gave us the opportunity to practise some knots and relax after a long journey.
Next morning, the team found themselves en route to the Hohsaas glacier where we spent the following two days learning and revising skills which would be essential for the trip. The first opportunity to put them to use would be on Allalinhorn (4027m). As one of the most accessible summits in the Alps this would make an ideal goal for the team as their first foray above 4000m. Having navigated our way up-piste, past the ski racers, we donned ropes and began the approach up the WNW Ridge (F+). After an hour and a half the team sat proudly under the summit crucifix, whereupon we paused to take some team photos. Following a quick descent we returned to the top station to enjoy the sun before we headed back down to camp.
The following day offered the team the opportunity to try something new to them all, Via Ferrata. The Jegihorn stands at 3,026m and after a strenuous approach in the extreme heat, the instructors gave a short safety brief on how to use the kit and we were away. Starting with a gentle ascent, after 30 minutes the route steepened requiring much more concentration and physical dexterity, the heat of the day taking toll on the group as we pushed increasingly higher. A brief stop at the top for a team photo was followed by a hasty retreat down the steep footpath. Due to a longer than planned ascent, we opted to hike up to the Hohsaas hut where we were welcomed by a charming host and a meal which certainly didn’t disappoint.
Waking up for breakfast at 5am, our rope teams were the first out on the hill and led from the front all the way up to the summit of the Weissmeis (4017m, PD). The final push steepening before the crest opened up in front of us. We didn’t hang around long on the summit because of the piercing wind which was whipping across so we beat a hasty to the valley floor below.
The Breithorn would be the next summit for the team, pushing them onwards and upwards to a greater elevation (4164m, F). An early start allowed us to drive to Tasch and get one of the first trains up to Zermatt where we caught the Klein Matterhorn lift, giving us spectacular views of the Matterhorn on the way up. Once out at the top station we had to break trail and were the first teams on the summit by a long way, basking in the unspoilt snow around us.
Our final days in Saas Grund were spent revising skills on the Hohsaas glacier as bad weather prevented us from climbing any higher. Nevertheless, we moved over to Chamonix as planned and made camp in the idyllic Camping l’ile des Barrats situated just a short walk away from the Aigulle du Midi lift station. Having restocked the pantry with fresh food, we split the group in two and devised an itinerary that would keep us away from the poor weather which had turned Mt Blanc into a no-go area.
After caughting the tramway up to the Mer de Glace, the team were introduced to more advanced movement across vertical terrain and in no time were racing up the ice pitches. After a night in the Cosmiques hut, we were immediately faced with the heavily exposed Cosmiques Arete which we would be clambering over for the next three hours. Two 20m abseils in the middle section provided some entertainment with a small rock climbing section thrown in. Finishing off by climbing up on top of the Midi Station viewing platform was a cracking finale to the route and whilst no Mt Blanc, the route certainly delivered a lot towards the team’s technical and inter-personal skill development, with smiles all round at the end.
An enjoyable day followed by a hearty raclette in town celebrated the team’s achievements over the expedition: everyone achieving their Alpine Mountain Foundation and climbing various snow/mixed routes on 4000ers.
